Friday, January 2, 2015

Eagle Racing TT02 FRD: Current Chassis Settings and Corner Weights

With the holidays, and taking a trip to visit family, I have not had much opportunity to test the new TT02 FRD chassis at the local carpet track.  I have been able to spend some time testing on the polished concrete in my garage though.  I have been playing around with springs, weight, and alignment settings.  I am also trying to stick mainly with parts that come with the car, along with using some cheap fixes, to demonstrate that it can be pretty capable without throwing a lot of money and  parts at it.  I recently invested in a setup station from Yeah Racing to make the setup process more consistent and accurate.  Couple that with an Integy set up board and ride height gauge, and it is easy to do the setup right.  You can get by with some simple tools and a flat surface, but using the whole system makes the process go a bit smoother, for me.

Here are the settings I am using at the moment:

Shocks - Modified by removing lower o-ring, and adding rebound foam in bladder.  20wt shock oil.
Springs - Eagle green
Ride Height - 5mm
Droop - 11mm
Camber - 2 deg. negative
Toe - 1 deg. toe in
Weight - 25g Eagle standard weights + 28g of weight on rear diffuser

Shocks - Modified by removing lower o-ring, and adding rebound foam in bladder.  35wt shock oil.
Springs - Tamiya yellow
Ride Height - 6mm
Droop - 11mm
Camber - 5 deg. negative
Caster - 5 deg. positive (factory setting)
Toe - 0 deg. toe in

Once the alignment is dialed in, getting the corner weights tweaked in is good practice.  I have a simple and inexpensive set of scales that came from Amazon.  They come with covers to protect the scale wile not in use.  I did have to add some inexpensive, stick on rubber feet to help them sit flat, and keep them from moving around.

It is best to corner weight last, once your alignment is right.  If the alignment is out of balance, then the corner weights will be affected once it is brought back in.  Where to start without having scales?  I have always turned the adjusters all the way to the top, and marked a place on the front of the ring.  To set ride ride height initially, I give them equal numbers of turns on both sides.  This should get it close, assuming that the chassis is true and not warped.  My TT02 was pretty true out of the box, and did not require a lot of adjustment.  I did find out, however, that even with using a shorty battery pack, it is still a little heavy on the left side.  I am currently looking at options to add more weight to the right side to even things out.  Also, don't forget to weigh with your body shell on, because it influences the balance as well.

I found a free app from Intercomp that will let you input the values from the scales, and it will do all the calculations for the important relationships.  You can save the setups as well.

As you can see, my cross weights are within a couple of grams of each other, but my right side weight is lower than the left.  I have been shooting for 50/50 front/rear weight balance lately, and it is almost right on the money.


  1. Okay mod19 Im having another issue. Got all the electronics working fine. Yay! But now my droop and ride height don't want to stay set. I get it where I want it and then run it for 1 min then check them and it's out of whack. I did put MST dk spring on there they are 30mm long could that be the problem. I'm also asking Blueststar this question hoping either one or both of you will have an answer.

    1. One thing that is critical with these chassis is making sure that the suspension arms move freely. You should be able to disconnect the shocks, remove the wheels, and when you raise the suspension it should drop freely when you let go. If not the lower blocks may be too tight, and a small shim may need to be removed, or one of the upper rod ends might be tight. I drop of oil on the ball joint may fix that. Hope this helps.

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    3. I have it set like blueststar's with the front lower arms all the way forward and the 4 spacer on the front part of the upper arm. So I'll start there checking that and see what happens then go from there. Thanks!

    4. Didn't really help I found my upper arms extremely tight so I loosens them to where they fell freely without shocks or wheels but as soon as I put everything back on it stopped. I think the MST dk springs are too long I think they are 32 mm, and I think the extra weight in the rear will help (ordered weight set from BT) so it's gonna sit until I get those weights and the spacers and new rear toe block. Then after that I'll mess with it some more plus get the scales so I can find my weight bias.

    5. Thanks for the setup tips. I just picked up the FRD and noticed they come with the Shock Mod already performed at the Factory now. My rear end is also not returning when I'm testing out the Droop, looks like I have to play with the spacing.

    6. No problem. It is good that they are doing the shock mod from the factory, now. It can be tricky to get the spacing right on the control arm pivots, but it is worth the effort. Also, check the upper link ball ends for free movement. Sometimes those can be a little tight.