tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89393815218067358502024-03-14T06:56:52.191-04:00Mod19RCRexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-37411814780934535272016-08-14T16:45:00.000-04:002016-08-14T16:45:48.661-04:00Project 963K: Something a little differentI decided to take a break from RC drifting for a bit, and started a new RC related project. A couple of months ago, while browsing a 3D printing blog site, I stumbled upon a really cool project where a guy designed and 3D printed a CAT D10 dozer that was radio controlled. He made a cool build thread over on the RC Truck and Construction forum. <a href="http://www.rctruckandconstruction.com/showthread.php?t=10217" target="_blank">3D Printed D10T Build</a> <br />
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Once I saw this project, I knew that I wanted to try something similar. It combines many of my current and past hobbies into one complex project. First I needed to decide what I wanted to build. That part was easy...a CAT Track Loader. When I was a kid some of my earliest memories were from watching a track loader dig foundations and grade dirt in my neighborhood as houses were being built all around us. My childhood career aspiration was "being a bulldozer driver". I had Tonka construction equipment, and one of my favorite Lego sets was a cool track loader. So, yeah, that all left a permanent impression.<br />
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For this project I chose something that I have not seen modeled before; the CAT 963K Track Loader.<br />
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The common scale for RC Trucks and Construction Equipment is 1/14:1. I wanted to make as accurate of a replica as I could, and I think that may be one of the biggest challenges of the project. Often when folks scratch build these sort of machines they rely on a diecast model or are lucky to find blueprints of the model somewhere to start with. In researching this project I was only able to find some CAT literature (sales brochure) for this particular model. But I think it contains enough info for me to get it pretty close. One key part was a really nice 2-view drawing in the literature that has many overall dimensions for the 963K.<br />
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I use Solidworks for 3D modeling at work, so naturally that is what I was going to use to design this project. I was able to use this 2-view image in Solidworks and scale the overall height to 1/14:1 of the 1:1 specification. Once this baseline was established, it allowed me to start sketching over the outlines of parts for profiles, and getting dimensions so that I could start building an accurate model.<br />
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Many, many hours later, and I am off to a pretty good start. I started with modeling the tracks first, and the basic undercarriage parts. Then I moved on to the basic chassis tub, bucket and lift arm.<br />
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I have been using the images in the literature as a guideline for adding detail to the models. It can be tedious at times, but I am liking the look and proportions of things so far. I also have to consider that I am 3D printing almost everything, and have to take that into account while designing also.</div>
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There is still a lot of work left to do from the design standpoint, but it is really starting to shape up at this point. There are lots of details that need to be added to many of the components, but it is nice to see how the basic structure is looking.</div>
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Here are a few other details about the project. It will use two electric gear motors for propulsion. It will have working hydraulic cylinders to control the lift arm and bucket tilt. Instead of using traditional RC gear for control, it will be run from a Raspberry Pi that is connected wirelessly to a Logitech game controller. It will have lights and sound that are generated and controlled by the Raspberry Pi.<br />
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The Raspberry Pi gives me lots of interesting capabilities and options, along with costing less than traditional RC gear. The challenge will be in the programming, because that is one thing that I am not very experienced with. It should be fun to learn along the way.<br />
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Stay tuned for more...RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-61381216199051778882016-05-19T20:54:00.001-04:002016-05-19T20:55:37.155-04:00TT02 FRD: Swapping Eagle Parts to Reduce Front End PlayI really like my Eagle Racing TT02 FRD, and plan on keeping it for a while. If I have one main complaint about the chassis it is the excessive amount of front end slop it has. I have changed rod ends, and shimmed up places as much as I could, but there are some things that can't be fixed as easily without causing binding. The stock upper arms are one of the main culprits here. Despite having a seriously long pivot shaft, the arms were designed too narrow, and due to manufacturing tolerances, this created a lot of slop in some cases.<br />
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I think Eagle listened to it's customers and team drivers, and chose to make this better on the new TT02 RWD chassis that was recently released.</div>
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<a name='more'></a>Good news! These parts will fit the TT02 FRD as well. Here is what you need:<br />
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You won't use the pivot shafts that come with these arms, but everything works on the stock FRD pivot shafts. After installing these, the amount of play in the upper arms is reduced greatly. It really tightened up the front end on my chassis.</div>
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As you can see, these arms are nearly twice as wide at the pivot which is the key to reducing the play. For me it was a worthwhile upgrade.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-16409156598618816662016-04-24T23:04:00.000-04:002016-04-24T23:04:36.841-04:00Project Update: Yokomo Drift Package Type C RWDSorry for the lack of content recently. I've started a new job, and have been working on some other projects that have kept me away from the keyboard lately.<br />
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A while back I posted about an upcoming build of the Yokomo Type C chassis. It took a little longer than expected to complete, but it has been a fun project. I'm not going to detail the entire build but will give you the highlights of what I am calling a "budget" RWD build.<br />
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The build is pretty straightforward, and I used a limited number of upgrades along the way.<br />
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Up front Usukani upper and lower arms in Yokomo blue were used. You will need 2.5mm lowers for the Yokomo chassis. For knuckles I used some MST plastic pieces that I had lying around. For steering a pair of Team Suzuki long wiper arms were used along with some extensions that I 3D printed with carbon fiber filament. The extensions are copies of the ones that come with the D4 RWD if you want to source them. An OMG plastic case servo handles the steering with more than enough capability. I'm also using a Onisiki gyro, that is mounted on a custom mount that I designed and 3d printed in CF. I've been really impressed with this gyro so far, especially considering the price. It is rock solid and smooth.<br />
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The combination of front end components works well, gives plenty of lock, and great ackerman adjustment.<br />
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Out back, I have kept things pretty simple. Almost all stock components are used. I did pick up an Active Hobby spur gear adapter to install as the stock gearing was not a good fit with 10.5 motor I am using. Gearing is currently a 82 spur gear and a 15 pinion. For power a Speed Passion 10.5 paired with a Reventon R ESC are being used.<br />
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I decided to give the stock rear suspension a try on the Type C. I have been intrigued by the potential of some active toe geometry that this setup provides. It should be fun to experiment with the rear toe link geometry to get various levels of active toe. Shocks are stock Type C all around with some M's pistons installed for a little extra smoothness.<br />
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The balance of this car works out really nice right out of the box. We have been shooting for about 55% rear weight on our chassis lately, and this one comes in right at that.<br />
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This chassis drives really well, and took only a minimal amount of tuning to get it sliding nice. I am looking forward to working with it and seeing how much better I can get it. The plan is to keep it simple and "budget" for a while, retaining the plastic tub chassis even. At some point I may pick up one of the many conversion chassis for it and take it to the next level, but for now, it is working pretty nice as is.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-65669116109856893452016-03-28T20:17:00.002-04:002016-03-28T20:17:48.410-04:00Product Showcase: Usukani Front Bulkhead for Sakura D4Usukani has released several great upgrade parts for the Sakura D4 in the past several months. One great part that seems to have gone unnoticed by many is the Front Bulkhead. It is a great mod, and provides multiple benefits to the the D4 chassis.<br />
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It is manufactured with the good quality that has become standard for Usukani parts. In the kit you will get the two bulkhead halves, two spacers, two suspension pins, and the metric hardware required to assemble it.<br />
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The unit goes together easily and fits perfectly in the D4 chassis. Once installed, the benefit of increased chassis rigidity becomes clear. The front of the chassis will be noticeably stiffer, which means the suspension can do its job without the interruption that comes from a flexing chassis.<br />
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The front bulkhead will also provide two areas of adjustment that were not available with the stock D4 parts. The first is roll center; six different locations are provided for adjustment. I have been doing a lot of tuning with roll centers lately and this is certainly welcome. The other is caster adjustment, but you will need to provide the spacers for the upper arms. If you are using Usukani upper arms, you will need spacers for 2.5mm diameter pins, and a total of 6.5mm of spacers per each side. I am using (3) 2mm thick spacers and (2) 0.5mm thick spacers on each side.<br />
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Another thing you will notice is that the front suspension pin mounting blocks take up a lot of room and limit the upper shock mounting positions. The shocks can be spaced out from the towers if needed, but I have found that I don't use the inner holes for my setups anyway. You could also switch to a mono shock setup using either the upper arms or adding some parts to the lower arms. Overall the Usukani D4 Front Bulkhead is a good mod to have, and for the price of $26 USD, it is hard to beat.RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-75239659533785831002016-02-06T15:46:00.000-05:002016-02-06T15:46:05.890-05:00Product Showcase: Usukani Rear Shaft Conversion Kit for Sakura D4There is no doubt that the 3 Racing Sakura D4 has taken off since it was introduced. The same can be said for Usukani. This young brand has gained interest and momentum worldwide in a short amount of time. They have put a lot of focus on the Sakura D4 and are delivering unique upgrades for this popular chassis. Usukani's latest and most significant upgrade to date is the Rear Shaft Conversion Kit for the Sakura D4. They are producing it in Pink, Black, Silver, Yokomo Blue, and Red. The USA pricing on this little gem is a mere $78.<br />
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This kit is very comprehensive, and replaces the entire rear drive section and bulkhead on the D4.<br />
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It comes packaged neatly, and protects the finish on all the parts nicely.<br />
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And there are a lot of parts!<br />
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The kit includes:<br />
-Instructions for both the shaft conversion and using the stock belt drive<br />
-Bulkheads<br />
-All spacers required<br />
-Center gear unit<br />
-Rear axle + gear<br />
-Spur gear mount + shaft<br />
-Metal bevel gears<br />
-Multi-hole rear link mounts<br />
-Bearings + shims<br />
-Metal outdrive cups<br />
-Rear axle bearing mounts<br />
-Rear pulley style eccentric bearing mounts<br />
-All screws, pins, and hardware needed to build the unit<br />
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It is hard to believe that all these parts can be included in a kit that costs $78 USD. Let's build it!<br />
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The heart of the conversion kit is the center bevel gear unit. It assembles in a straightforward manner and goes together pretty easily. TIP: The bearings fit pretty snug in this assembly, so make sure to clean any dirt that may have found it's way into the bearing seats. Carefully press them in and make sure they are seated all the way.<br />
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Personally I would have liked to have seen this assembly use some shims for adjustment so that I could fine tune the mesh at each end to suit my preferences, but the Usukani assembly gives an acceptable mesh at both ends without the use of shims. The large bevel gear that goes up top is metal that comes with a black coating on it, and the lower gear is a plastic Yokomo 17T gear.<br />
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The rear axle and gear assembly is a pretty standard affair. It features an aluminum center and metal outer drive cups. It also uses a standard Yokomo 40T plastic gear that should be easy to source for replacement when the time comes. The Usukani Rear Shaft Conversion Kit does change the gearing of the drivetrain. The stock D4 uses a 32/16 pulley ratio that works out to a 2.06 reduction, while the Usukani kit uses a 40/17 gear ratio that works out to a 2.35 reduction. In my case I was using a 92T spur and 22T pinion making the FDR 8.61. With the Usukani shaft conversion the FDR changes to 9.83, so I am planning on going up a couple of teeth on the motor pinion gear to compensate.<br />
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The kit includes some M2 x 4mm screws to hold the bevel gear on to the axle that require a 1.3mm hex tool. I did not have a quality 1.3mm hex tool on hand, and felt like I was going to round out the hexes on the screws while tightening them. Luckily I had some alternate screws lying around with deeper hexes that used a 1.5mm tool.<br />
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The rest of the assembly is straightforward and goes together without any issues. The only tricky part is making sure that the bearings are all seated well and completely. The fits are snug, so careful attention needs to be paid there. Also, be mindful when installing the M1.6 screws that hold the axle bearing retainers in place. The threads can strip easily if over-tightened. I chose to keep the original D4 round spacers because I preferred the look of them over the kit supplied parts. They are interchangeable, so that gives you more options on how to assemble the kit. I also substituted stainless screws throughout. The kit supplied screws are good quality, and the only reason I switched them out was to match the rest of my chassis.<br />
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Here is one area where I think this kit provides a real value: extra parts and instructions are included to install the factory D4 belt drive components. So if you prefer the belt drive, or have a breakage and are waiting on replacement parts, you can just swap in the belt drive setup and be back in action again. I built it up with the belt configuration to demonstrate how easy it is and how well it goes together.<br />
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Once assembled the Usukani Rear Shaft Drive Conversion Kit fits perfectly into the D4 chassis. I used the innermost mounting holes for the upper turnbuckles and my original alignment was retained perfectly.<br />
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One thing you will notice immediately, besides how good it all looks, is that the rear of the chassis is now extremely rigid compared to the factory plastic parts used for the bulkheads. I am anxious to get to the track and test it is out, and will provide feedback once I do. It is still hard to believe that you can get all these parts that fit together so well for only $78. Any other manufacturer would charge 2-3X more for what you get in this kit.RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-59093580493686842382016-01-26T20:11:00.001-05:002016-01-26T20:11:31.357-05:00A Tale of Two Body Builds: ABC Sileighty + Addiction BN Sports Part 1Not long ago I saw a <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBJ2jfypN50" target="_blank">video</a> on YouTube from Street Break Circuit that featured a USDM 240SX Coupe. ABC Hobby doesn't make that particular body, and the one in the video had the front end from the ABC 180SX grafted on. As much as I loved the shell, I could not justify buying two pricey bodies only to cut one up for the front clip. Then after some searching I learned that the pig nose 180SX body came molded as a Sileighty that included a separate nose section with the pop up headlights.<br />
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That is when the lightbulb came on and a plan was formed. I ended up buying both bodies to build. The Sileighty is being built first and I intend to put it up for sale once it is completed to offset the cost of getting the parts I needed to do the 240SX. Originally, I was just going to make it a stock version of a Sil80, but the new Addiction RC BN Sports kits kept calling my name, so I picked up those sets as well, and I'm glad I did.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I bought the full Addiction BN Sports kit for the 180SX plus the nose and side skirts for the PS13, and plan to mix and match the parts for the two builds.<br />
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It is pretty nerve racking to cut up a brand new ABC bodyshell for a body kit...<br />
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...But the quality and accuracy of both the ABC shell and the Addiction body kit are top notch, and worth the price that you pay for them. Cutting on the lines yields a perfect fit. Everything about ABC bodyshells fit perfectly, and I think the window masks are the best in the industry. I won't go as far as to say they are easy to build, but they give you the tools to do a great job with a little less time invested.<br />
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I picked up some Wrap Up 3D decals from Raikou Drift Shop to help give it a little more punch. This body will have plenty of detail. Hopefully I will get a chance to get some color on it by the weekend.<br />
<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-5826461498908254252016-01-21T20:02:00.001-05:002016-01-21T20:02:34.600-05:00New Build Coming Soon: Yokomo DP Type C<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've had a Yokomo Drift Package build on my 'to do' list for a long time. Looks like it has finally made it near the top of the list. My intention is to make this a two-stage build. First the plan is to build it mostly stock, using a few upgrades up front to convert it to RWD. I really want to experience it in all it's plastic tub chassis glory! :) Eventually I wold like to pair it up with one of the many conversion chassis that are available for the full experience. This chassis should keep me busy for a while...RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-71340317292692025922016-01-18T20:22:00.000-05:002016-01-18T20:22:30.380-05:00Designing a New Style of Wire RetainerOne of the things that I haven't used in my chassis builds up until now is motor wire retainers. I like the look of them, but don't care for the cost. Once I have my motor wires all done up neatly, what do I do with the sensor cable? Recently I gained access to a 3D printer, so I thought I would work on a better wire retainer design as a first project. Someone may have already done it, but I have not seen a design that also retains the sensor cable. So I modeled up the design in Solidworks, and printed out the first prototype parts.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>The design is pretty basic, and uses 3mm flat head socket cap screws. I made some plain ones as well as some that have a loop on the bottom for a round style sensor cable. These are right off the printer and only required me to tap the 3mm threads in the bottom pieces.<br />
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They are being used on my EA TT02 FRD. I already had the wiring done fairly neatly, but I wanted to make it look a little nicer.<br />
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It is a noticeable improvement, and I feel like the wires are more securely retained. The sensor cable ends up tucked neatly underneath.<br />
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I am pretty happy with the result of this first design. I think I will also make a version that works with a flat ribbon style sensor cable, too.RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-6308658392934143812016-01-12T19:15:00.000-05:002016-01-12T19:15:12.783-05:00Project Bad Bunny: Status Complete<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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This project has taken some time, but I am happy with the end result. The primary goal was a dark and subtle style for this Rocket Bunny FD RX-7, and I think that goal was achieved. I have to give special thanks to <a href="http://rc-pipes-shop.com/" target="_blank">P!PES</a> RC Exhaust, who provided the awesome "BigAss CF Muffler" for this build. This is a brand new product for <a href="http://rc-pipes-shop.com/" target="_blank">P!PES</a> and I am honored to be a part of the introduction and advertisement for it. As usual the quality is top notch, and the look is distinctive.<br />
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Full gallery after the jump...<br />
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Also used in this build was a P!PES V2 Light Kit. I really like the layout and compact size. The lighting effects are really cool as well. I will have more details on my install and the fiber optic bumper lights in a later post.<br />
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My makeshift studio setup.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-82364739575290784772016-01-09T20:06:00.000-05:002016-01-09T20:06:51.483-05:00Sakura D4: Suspension Blocks and Rear Lower ArmsA lot of time has been spent de-anodizing (pink) and polishing aluminum parts on this chassis, and hopefully this will be the last batch for a while. It is really time consuming.<br />
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I would have done these mods earlier, but had to wait for some of the parts to be in stock. The suspension blocks are from 3 Racing and the rear arms are Yeah Racing D3 arms. As mentioned in an earlier post, I like the D3 arms because of the narrower track compared to the D4 arms, giving a little more adjustment range by using spacers and/or wheel offset. This is a short term solution while I am waiting for Usukani to release their new rear arm design. Hopefully soon...<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Besides being aluminum, the suspension blocks utilize ball shaped pivots on the ends of the pivot shaft which make them that much smoother in operation. I think this is critical, especially when running really soft suspension settings. The ball ends also allow you to try other suspension geometries such as anti-squat, or front kick up without binding the movement of the arms. And, of course they look good.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-21249916237816790382016-01-06T20:09:00.001-05:002016-01-06T20:09:15.431-05:00Sakura D4 + Usukani + Punisher S13 @ Tri AcresI have been posting about my D4 RWD recently with all the Usukani parts installed, and have been talking about how I am loving the way the car runs. Finally I got a chance to put together some video of it in action at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/424636107699178/" target="_blank">Tri Acres RC Drift Circuit</a>. Here it is in the current state of tune.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-33063814765231776162015-12-28T20:37:00.001-05:002015-12-28T20:37:24.213-05:00Sakura D4: New Dampers, Aluminum Parts, New Gyro, and New ScrewsI've really been enjoying the D4 so far, and the more I work with it, the more I like it. 3 Racing made a nice step forward over the D3 and now that factory upgrades are starting to filter through the pipeline, essential upgrades can be completed.<br />
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The first order of business is taking care of my main gripe with the stock chassis... steering wipers.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>While it can slide nice with the stock plastic bits, there is a lot of flex in the wipers. I chose to use the 3 Racing factory aluminum steering to upgrade mine. The parts are nicely made, but do have one flaw. The wiper plates that screw to the bearing pivots have threading in the holes where the screws go through to fasten them to the pivots. The threads at those locations need to be drilled with a 3mm drill. Don't drill any of the other threaded holes, as they are all needed. Everything fits perfectly in place, and removes all flex from the steering.<br />
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I also upgraded to a D-Like premium gyro. It is money well spent. After battling with gyros that drift off center and behave erratically, this thing is a godsend. The smoothness + control is noticeable, and rock solid.<br />
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The next upgrade is in the dampers department. I chose to try some new M's pistons, shafts, and lower seals, along with some TRF main bodies for this build.<br />
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These parts are very nice, but be warned that many of the components are very small, and there are some very thin shims that are used to make it all work well. Assembly and setup can be a little tedious, but the end result is worth the effort.<br />
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I went with the 3-hole 1.0mm pistons, and the +2mm shafts. A little more droop never hurts. Ultimately I ended up drilling the rear shock pistons out to 1.15mm and used 10wt oil. The fronts stayed at 1.0mm and I used 30wt oil for them. A TRF foam insert was used over the front bladders but not in the rear, to promote weight transfer to the rear.<br />
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The end result is an incredibly smooth damper with almost zero stiction. I am really happy with these things, and the improved control is noticeable.<br />
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Sticking with the silver/black theme that this chassis has going, I decided to replace all the factory fasteners with stainless screws. Nobody makes a kit that I have found, so I put together one for myself. I definitely like the look.<br />
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Currently, the car is driving fantastic. It has a reasonably wide speed envelope, has great off throttle control, transitions smoothly, and can be driven easily to adjust line. All great characteristics IMHO, but I still keep working to improve it. Future upgrades include aluminum suspension mounting blocks along with some aluminum rear suspension arms. I also have the upcoming Usukani gear drive conversion, front bulkhead, and rear lower roll center mounts on order. They should be released very soon. Expect a detailed overview once they arrive.<br />
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Some chassis shots in the current state of tune:<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com26tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-29339732406403013632015-12-08T20:05:00.002-05:002015-12-08T20:05:48.772-05:00Product Showcase: Usukani Tube Style Turnbuckles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
One of the interesting products offered by Usukani are these neat tube style turnbuckles. They come in several standard lengths; 23mm, 27mm, 33mm, and 39mm. They also come in the following colors; Pink, Purple, Red, Gold, Tamiya Blue, Yokomo Blue, Silver, and Black. They have internal threads that work with plastic rod ends. Usukani recommends using them with Yokomo rod ends, but I was able to make them work just fine with my 3 Racing parts. I think they will work with other brands as well, but I have not been able to test them personally.</div>
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I chose the 39mm Silver version for my Sakura D4 rear upper turnbuckles. As you can see in the comparison with the stock turnbuckle assembly there is plenty of thread engagement, and adjustment range. They should be very strong, too. The turnbuckles can be adjusted with a 5.5mm tool, on the flats, or there are a couple of small holes through the middle that a small hex tool can be used in. There is also an identifying band machined in one end to designate left-handed threads, making it easy to know which way to adjust them.<br />
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The Usukani tube style turnbuckles add a nice extra bit of style and functionality to your drift chassis. They should look really good once I have some more aluminum upgrades on my own chassis.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-8410960543517014422015-12-02T20:48:00.000-05:002015-12-02T20:48:53.113-05:00Project Bad Bunny: Paint and Starting Assembly.Work has been moving slow but steady on project Bad Bunny. All the parts are painted and assembly has started. I went with Tamiya PS-23 Gunmetal for the color, and backed it with PS-5 Black to make sure it had a dark hue to it.<br />
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The first part to go on was the rear wing. I did that in two stages to make it a little easier. First I attached it at the back with shoe goo. Once that was dry I used body screws for the part that attaches to the trunk.<br />
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<br />If something looks a little odd in the pics it is because I am only partially removing the overspray film to keep the body protected as much as possible during the lengthy assembly process.<br />
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Next up is mounting all these Rocket Bunny body kit parts...<br />
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Working with these overfender kits can be tricky. Patience is absolutely in order, along with planning ahead. I have had a few people ask how to work with the tiny screws that can be bought from Tetsujin and Speedway Pal. Here is a method that I feel works well.<br />
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First, I drill the overfender at all the rivet locations using a 1/16" (.063) drill bit. Place a block of wood or something under it to help with accuracy and to prevent drilling into your work surface. Drilling lexan almost always results in a burr forming on the back side of the hole (and sometimes the front). I use some small flush cutters to remove most of the burr and the tip of an xacto blade to finish cleaning up the hole. You want to remove any excess material, otherwise it will prevent the overfender from sitting flush with the body once it is screwed on.<br />
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Once I get done drilling the overfenders, they get carefully aligned with the body and taped in place. For this kit, I used shoe goo on the large flat part of the front fenders and also the side skirts. Next I drill .045" holes where the screws go. This gives the threads some material to grab onto, but does not let the screw deform the lexan on the body. Then carefully run the screws in using a #0 Phillips screw driver. Make sure to run each screw all the way in, but be careful not to make it too tight, otherwise you will end up win a dimple around the screw head that will not look very good. It is a lot of work, but the end result is pretty satisfying.<br />
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I wanted to go for a different look for the headlights on this build. Ultimately I went with a fixed bulb aero setup. The lexan pop up covers from the Tamiya body were used, and I modified the light buckets that normally mount on the stock bumper. I really like the look of it all together.<br />
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I plan on running fiber optic lights on the bumper, and this should all work well with the PiPES V2 light kit I have for this build.<br />
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That is all the progress for now. Up next, I will be finishing up the lighting and doing final assembly. I also have a new design PiPES exhaust he is making for this project. It should be killer! There are a few other finishing touches in store as well. Stay tuned...RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-74297134350944276252015-11-23T20:12:00.000-05:002015-11-23T20:17:28.560-05:00Usukani D4 Carbon Option Set: Completed Chassis GalleryAs promised, here is a gallery of the completed Usukani Sakura D4 Carbon Option chassis set. I really love the look of the black version. It matches great with the de-anodized aluminum parts and I almost don't want to finish adding the electronics.<br />
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Before I assembled it though, I took steps to keep it looking good...<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I bought a small bit of 3M paint protection film for about $11 and applied it to the bottom of the chassis and in the battery mounting area. Yes, I took the time to hand trim it all around the edges and every screw countersink. A lot of time...<br />
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As mentioned before, this set looks really good, and is high quality. I can't wait for Usukani to release the rest of the mods they have in the works for the D4. You will notice that I already have the lower arms up front, steering knuckles, and tube turnbuckles out back; all nice pieces.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-26572033095039534762015-11-15T21:08:00.000-05:002015-11-15T21:08:59.474-05:00Usukani D4 Cabon Option Set: Overview and Detailed PicsUsukani recently released their carbon option set for the 3 Racing Sakura D4. It's available in either black or silver carbon. Both look great, and I chose black for my build. The set includes the main chassis, upper deck, front and rear shock towers, front bumper support, rear battery mount, and a spur gear holder.<br />
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The main chassis looks really nice, with a good carbon pattern. It has nice styling with some relief cuts in various spots on the bottom of the chassis. It is 3mm thick vs. the 2.5mm thickness of the stock chassis. The machining is clean and consistent, and all the countersinks are nicely done.<br />
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There is a nice large vented area in the back for motor cooling, and it has some extra machining done to help provide extra clearance for the motor.<br />
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On the underside there are holes for mounting the servo on both sides of the chassis, instead of just the right side like the stock chassis. This gives some extra steering options, as well as the ability to go dual servo steering.<br />
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The upper deck is styled similar to the main chassis. It is 2mm thick which is the same as the stock upper deck. There is a relief cut in the front to provide some extra belt clearance for anyone using it with AWD. <br />
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The front and rear shock towers are really sturdy, and are made from 4mm thick material compared to the stock 3.5mm towers. They feature all the same mounting holes/geometry as the stock parts, but include some extra holes that will no doubt be used for future Usukani upgrades.<br />
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The front bumper support is made of 2.6mm carbon and it styled to match the rest of the chassis parts.<br />
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The rear position battery mount plate is 2.7mm thick compared to the stock 2.6mm. It has all the same mounting holes as the stock mount.<br />
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The spur gear holder/brace is an interesting addition to the kit. It works just the same as the stock plastic part, only with a little more style.<br />
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Overall it is a nice upgrade set that provides better looks, styling, and chassis rigidity for the D4. I plan on installing the parts on mine in the coming days and will post some more pics after it is complete.RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-86993086432837169682015-11-14T14:46:00.002-05:002015-11-14T14:51:30.343-05:00Welcome Aboard Usukani!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I am excited to announce that Usukani has chosen to offer me sponsorship. Usukani is a new brand that is turning out new and innovative products. In partnership with them, I plan on bringing some in-depth product features to this blog. I also have a full option Sakura D4 build that I will be starting soon, featuring many of the products that Usukani has to offer. If you have seen some of the pictures they have been posting on Facebook, then you know that some exciting things are coming for D4 owners along with other manufacturers' chassis. Please be sure to click their logo on the main page of the blog and check out what they have to offer.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-37116747217709075062015-11-07T15:52:00.001-05:002015-11-07T15:52:25.705-05:00Project Bad Bunny: Intro and Body PrepI am finally getting around to a project that I have been wanting to build for quite a while. The Demi Works Rocket Bunny conversion for the Tamiya FD RX-7 has been in my sights since it first came out. With some other projects out of the way, it is time to get started.<br />
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The Demi Works kit is pretty nice overall but, as mentioned by others, the lexan is a little different in how it cuts, so I changed my normal procedure for trimming it out.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>I normally score all my body lines with a fresh X-acto blade, and break/peel the lexan away at the scribe lines. While using this method, I encountered a big problem when cutting out the over fenders. I had two of them break in half while removing the scribed lexan.<br />
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I've been working with lexan bodies for over 20 years and I have never had one break cleanly like this. Very strange. I contacted Demi Works about the problem and they sent me a replacement fender set right away, citing a bad piece of lexan. Good customer service on their part, and very appreciated.<br />
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This made me nervous about cutting the new set out so I changed my method. I bought a new set of straight and curved lexan scissors, practiced with them a little, then used them to cut out the new set. With some patience the result is very nice.<br />
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The nose of the Tamiya RX-7 needs to be cut off in order to use the Rocket Bunny nose included in the kit. You can choose to keep the stock nose if you want to keep that look. I simply cut it along the body lines.<br />
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I chose to use the headlight supports in the Rocket Bunny nose and cut away the ones from the stock body, leaving a small lip to help align the new nose.<br />
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The Demi Works nose fits well, but has a couple of awkward transitions where the bumper cover meets the fender and where the hood meets the bumper cover. Careful gluing should keep these areas from being very noticeable. I chose to drill out the five little light holes on each side below the headlights. I plan to use fiber-optic lighting there.<br />
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All trimmed up. This can be a lengthy process if you want good results.<br />
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Just like the real Rocket Bunny kit it is a good idea to trim away some of the wheel openings on the stock body. It serves two purposes. First it will help it look nicer, and second it will make it easier to apply adhesive when joining the fenders to the body.<br />
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All taped up and ready for some paint. I have a nice color in store for this one. I think I have mentioned it before, but I really like the green 3M auto body masking tape. It leaves a clean edge, has good adhesive, and can stretch a small amount. <br />
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I will paint and start the assembly process in the next part of the build.RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-68294448980986670172015-10-23T19:55:00.000-04:002015-10-23T19:55:25.531-04:00Sakura D4: Smoothing Up the Drivetrain and D3 Rear Arm SwapThe D4 has been a solid runner so far, but that doesn't mean I should stop trying to improve on it a bit. Like everyone else, I have been waiting for 3 Racing to finally release their upgrade parts for the D4. I desperately want to replace the plastic steering arms with some aluminum parts. I'll probably try out some of the rear suspension mods that they have coming as well. In the mean time, I did a few mods with some parts that are already available. <br />
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<a name='more'></a>The drivetrain is not bad from the factory, but the plastic pulleys never seem to run completely true. I went with some aluminum pulleys to add durability and to help it run extra smooth. I kept with the stock pulley sizes (33T & 16T). While I was at it, I upgraded to the aluminum solid axle from the D3 (SAK-D120/PK) along with the heavy duty outer joints (SAK-09/HD). <br />
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I also swapped the rear control arms out with some stock D3 arms that I had laying around. The D3 arms drop right in place, but are shorter by about 2mm. This gives me the option of narrowing the rear track if I need to, or I can run deeper offset wheels in the rear for a better look. The shock mounting positions are slightly different, but still in a range that provides good adjustment when needed.<br />
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Obviously, the pink needed to come off the solid axle. The entire drivetrain is smoother now and there is almost zero backlash between the heavy duty outer joints and the CVDs. I was able to notice the difference while driving and feel that it is a mod worth doing. Stay tuned for more...<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-62455447782281825842015-10-06T20:39:00.000-04:002015-10-07T17:16:03.718-04:00The Punisher Comes out at Night...Took the Punisher S13 to the track for a little night drift session this past Sunday. It sits on the new Sakura D4 chassis, which I am still enjoying and tuning. It made it through the maiden voyage with only a couple of bumper scuffs from some wall taps. It looks pretty menacing at night.<br />
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My buddy Patrick shot a little bit of video and put together a short clip of it in action. The backfire unit looks awesome at night!<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-44960923911807198232015-09-22T19:39:00.000-04:002015-09-22T19:39:17.561-04:00Project Punisher S13 Part 3: FinishedWith all the finishing touches completed, I grabbed a few pics. I'm pretty happy overall with how this body shell turned out.<br />
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-20897251092962195632015-09-21T20:47:00.001-04:002015-09-21T20:47:12.729-04:00Project Punisher S13 Part 2: A Few Details<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Even though I plan to run this body regularly, I wanted to add a few details to enhance the overall look of the car. The thing that probably has the biggest visual impact is a roll cage. It is made from .134" styrene rod that is bent with heat where needed and glued together. I painted it to match the blue in the Rockstar logo to offer some contrast.</div>
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<a name='more'></a>I also made a simple dash and rear package shelf using some scrap lexan. It is painted on the top with Tamiya PS-5 black, which gives the surface a satin finish. The package shelf also has a realistic looking place for the rear tubes of the roll cage to land. I really don't like seeing cages made where the bars are right up against the rear window, outlining it. Not many real roll cages are made that way.<br />
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Yokomo S13 light buckets fit the D-Like body with very little modification for both the front and rear. I usually mount them securely with hot glue, but I also like to seal them all the way around with silicone. This keeps dust and dirt from getting into the lenses, which is nearly impossible to get back out.<br />
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Lastly, I added some mirrors and the PiPES backfire unit exhaust tip. As mentioned in an earlier post, this thing is really trick and looks awesome with the integrated brake lights.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz3MKVDHiSDzJi3LPoQW0rm4TbBlf4QulPvq2Q0t6-8oiwHqDLZNhiRP2iPd-HZ6jl8Mn_qBgz-n5h82lojQI_ma-iwMjGXsOgrLs3Z2rbCcQuFCSsc6ibfJ5w4HFJc4RQSc1oFRrnJa4/s1600/IMG_2325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicz3MKVDHiSDzJi3LPoQW0rm4TbBlf4QulPvq2Q0t6-8oiwHqDLZNhiRP2iPd-HZ6jl8Mn_qBgz-n5h82lojQI_ma-iwMjGXsOgrLs3Z2rbCcQuFCSsc6ibfJ5w4HFJc4RQSc1oFRrnJa4/s640/IMG_2325.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-83584172733049537782015-09-14T20:36:00.001-04:002015-09-14T20:36:07.291-04:00Project Punisher S13 Part 1: The BeginningI've wanted to build and paint a D-Like S13 shell since they first released them. I finally developed a concept that I liked and went to work. I think that D-Like has the best looking S-13 on the market right now, and the fact that it comes molded with the great looking BN Sports body kit on it already makes it a great value. If I had one gripe, besides worthless window masks (ok, that is two gripes), it would be how thin these bodies are in the bumper and rocker areas. I'm sure it is hard to mold these things, but other manufactures manage to do a pretty good job of it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3c3wmKILCyhE8g_TuTRK1ZYNQBEB217rgEzKGUOrDn3lwmDqZoD_iMMdTppwE-yibsjdcgj6gw8lC960BFIiED0C6uqkniPMbSD5doJD8FqqhRDmnJl4VR1_uMpo1ri-GK8Mxv-MZxm8R/s1600/IMG_2388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3c3wmKILCyhE8g_TuTRK1ZYNQBEB217rgEzKGUOrDn3lwmDqZoD_iMMdTppwE-yibsjdcgj6gw8lC960BFIiED0C6uqkniPMbSD5doJD8FqqhRDmnJl4VR1_uMpo1ri-GK8Mxv-MZxm8R/s640/IMG_2388.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a>I loved Rockstar Recovery Grape... before they discontinued it. I always thought that the colors on the can would make for a great race car livery.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiibBCdk8dT5UJUlaU0PgDC-ftJ30IKp_IgmwRid-eLmSnfUCDxahDC2vQ1xZinQAMCG7yOtAU3t11ZGHk2sh2WNSQhExWXe-WjbuzJtVmpnHjuYtcosw4yG2cxEXrbv52MxojEemb1S0tu/s1600/rockstar-grape.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiibBCdk8dT5UJUlaU0PgDC-ftJ30IKp_IgmwRid-eLmSnfUCDxahDC2vQ1xZinQAMCG7yOtAU3t11ZGHk2sh2WNSQhExWXe-WjbuzJtVmpnHjuYtcosw4yG2cxEXrbv52MxojEemb1S0tu/s400/rockstar-grape.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
I also thought that the Team Yellow Onevia had one of the better Rockstar liveries.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgretfGK0jubVIYif7Wf6WRZJ-gYcCbCBCJU7HFKOPzFcGviGqwd7hQfEAWvme6xz5vjcSoB-tt27sQXc9lR5kk8nUEq5lvalP9VIAI1Lx_bsvdthThV_OZv2LBFgdSsOTsLEqeKmSbil8D/s1600/Yellow_rig2_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgretfGK0jubVIYif7Wf6WRZJ-gYcCbCBCJU7HFKOPzFcGviGqwd7hQfEAWvme6xz5vjcSoB-tt27sQXc9lR5kk8nUEq5lvalP9VIAI1Lx_bsvdthThV_OZv2LBFgdSsOTsLEqeKmSbil8D/s640/Yellow_rig2_web.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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And from there I had a solid foundation for a great mash up.<br />
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The body paint was pretty straightforward I simply copied the Team Yellow scheme mostly, but substituted Tamiya translucent purple (backed in anodized silver + black) in place of the yellow panels. But then came the hard part... decals. I found a vector file from a Rockstar marketing site and used that as a base file. I simply manipulated the colors to match the logo on the grape recovery can. <br />
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The hood needed something big and dramatic and after some searching, I decided on a cool rendition of the Punisher skull to go there. I wanted to make the car into a fictitious Formula D contender, so I made a 2015 windshield banner... Pro, of course. To make the best use of the 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of inkjet vinyl, a few other sponsor logos and numbers were added into the mix. It was a little tricky to get the colors to print out right, but I finally ended up with a sheet that I was happy with.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO1vQPRBSfErSl6KhPGdNa5RQMaeVruAyeKcYy_4fUxNMTSPJMR7QsGtsnipGrDgcw7Vub8F84pcDE3gXQpVtxm-4JRl_FTAwcg_c1OxKYLe4E9iR1p1NDCRytFrX3kq68JPyUxpCi8y7/s1600/IMG_2209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO1vQPRBSfErSl6KhPGdNa5RQMaeVruAyeKcYy_4fUxNMTSPJMR7QsGtsnipGrDgcw7Vub8F84pcDE3gXQpVtxm-4JRl_FTAwcg_c1OxKYLe4E9iR1p1NDCRytFrX3kq68JPyUxpCi8y7/s640/IMG_2209.JPG" width="544" /></a></div>
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Here is a teaser shot of how the shell is shaping up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-TfGs4J-tZdMUXpxeJAULoHlD50LDgaxzkEv1VTBnjSsxM1GoSIxN1lMpOP5BK5fHvuKCKtiy3qZVn1t4sYdQVNY8Na-asPY1wIeGfu4_F_GnVtSoshM_GrJmW-tfBqnSWyRUOe44_N7I/s1600/IMG_2210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-TfGs4J-tZdMUXpxeJAULoHlD50LDgaxzkEv1VTBnjSsxM1GoSIxN1lMpOP5BK5fHvuKCKtiy3qZVn1t4sYdQVNY8Na-asPY1wIeGfu4_F_GnVtSoshM_GrJmW-tfBqnSWyRUOe44_N7I/s640/IMG_2210.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Stay tuned for part 2...<br />
<br />RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-79973768330041644832015-09-12T15:42:00.000-04:002015-09-12T15:49:11.178-04:00PiPES Backfire UnitI recently purchased a PiPES backfire unit, and really love this thing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGgAwXG11_NtfhJCH_O_kvOJXhm1oH1LudKPTm62R9A3jN_BypwkQx7tb5y_VEF0hO8AOyernbxR5Zwzd5cHxOV6ZMwtlmKOK-caJjmZqZ9F4tL_mDiILJVLDU1vw-1tIq52ZofwB4IoN/s1600/IMG_2325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRGgAwXG11_NtfhJCH_O_kvOJXhm1oH1LudKPTm62R9A3jN_BypwkQx7tb5y_VEF0hO8AOyernbxR5Zwzd5cHxOV6ZMwtlmKOK-caJjmZqZ9F4tL_mDiILJVLDU1vw-1tIq52ZofwB4IoN/s640/IMG_2325.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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They can be purchased in a variety of configurations as single or dual exhaust, and include a pair of red LED functioning brake lights. I chose a 12mm single exhaust for my soon to be completed S13 project.</div>
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The way it works is pretty awesome...</div>
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The unit plugs into the receiver in the ESC slot and the ESC then plugs into the unit itself. There is a chip in the unit that contains all the logic for operation. When you begin to apply the throttle the exhaust starts to faintly glow orange. There is a red and a yellow LED inside that work together to make the orange glow. As more throttle is applied, the brighter the exhaust glows. When the throttle is released, a bright yellow flash comes from the exhaust... backfire! Whether from full throttle or partial, it backfires when the throttle is released. It is a great effect that looks perfect in low light conditions, and having functioning brake lights only enhances the realism. We have been having some night sessions at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/424636107699178/" target="_blank">Tri Acres RC Drift Circuit</a> and the backfire unit looks awesome. It provides a convincing effect when watching the car from behind, and when running the wall the yellow backfire illuminates the wall with each throttle input.<br />
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The unit is constructed really well, and made of durable materials. The mounting tab is extremely sturdy and was actually a little tough to bend for my install. But that means it should be able to hold up to the inevitable abuse that it will see in its life. I mounted mine using an extra clamp from an Eagle Racing stealth mount set. It clamps on to the stealth mount and is easy to adjust for position, height, and depth.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_ktvIXVP7uGWjyOwc_DnB637kc0-P3wogkCwkqy3-H_ci0dERuZLp4dR4Ryb6nkiWWEQzlIpyBxWChY3CuiMo04eeZNS5Ql6aNhDhKhQFThN6mCjj-v5H72AYe8jERYAa_SSQIEAZZYy/s1600/IMG_2327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiF_ktvIXVP7uGWjyOwc_DnB637kc0-P3wogkCwkqy3-H_ci0dERuZLp4dR4Ryb6nkiWWEQzlIpyBxWChY3CuiMo04eeZNS5Ql6aNhDhKhQFThN6mCjj-v5H72AYe8jERYAa_SSQIEAZZYy/s640/IMG_2327.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I chose to mount the unit right to the chassis on my Sakura D4. It fits well and is a clean install. However, the brake LEDs end up being separated from the body. I put a little bit of tape around them and wedge them into the light bucket holes on the body when it needs to be mounted. Not ideal, but it works out ok.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_x-OVeEKAf6h935LzuHET488kETMWHsiR6fGiPrtabKVNdR_PH1rdtAYY7PMRiK1Jdo-7L7FMTSSXdSyj4uAZqGjPTsiIHPoHie6zjykDa-7LsvokIg059kMeaz_kKqEFh2NZ3jWVP0s7/s1600/IMG_2371.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_x-OVeEKAf6h935LzuHET488kETMWHsiR6fGiPrtabKVNdR_PH1rdtAYY7PMRiK1Jdo-7L7FMTSSXdSyj4uAZqGjPTsiIHPoHie6zjykDa-7LsvokIg059kMeaz_kKqEFh2NZ3jWVP0s7/s640/IMG_2371.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here is a little video of it in action:</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZJc3pIzkU4U/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="400" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZJc3pIzkU4U?feature=player_embedded" width="650"></iframe></div>
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As mentioned before, I think this a great product for adding even more realism to your RC drift car, or any RC vehicle for that matter. Since I am in the USA I purchased my unit from <a href="http://blackstarhobbies.com/" target="_blank">Blackstar Hobbies</a>, but you can also order direct from the <a href="http://www.rc-pipes.com/" target="_blank">PiPES website</a>.</div>
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RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8939381521806735850.post-74939639484576362842015-09-06T14:32:00.003-04:002015-09-06T14:34:02.150-04:00Sakura D4: Steering and Suspension ModsAs of right now, 3 Racing has not released any upgrade parts for the D4. But that doesn't mean some simple improvements can't be done in the mean time. I noticed that the center link in the steering has some flex as the angles get closer to full lock. It would have been nice if 3 Racing made a straight link for the RWD kits, but I am sure that keeping parts to a minimum is what helps keep cost down. Another problem with the center link is that it is a fixed length, so Ackermann cannot be adjusted. I made a center link out of two Sakura shock ends and incorporated an adjustable turnbuckle.<br />
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You have to make a little room for it first...</div>
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<a name='more'></a>Space is really tight where the steering bellcranks, linkages, and suspension blocks are located. The front bulkheads need to be removed and the little nubs on the back side need to be cut down. I used a Dremel tool to accomplish this.<br />
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Here you can see the area to be removed:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3z1aLRjyBNc3Jz9TesIGjS31cNQkcJUQz8R2doYEFJcVraWwpNDdKG7AHBRyGG7pjJr4NSpm3oFc7I8bvF5kmfVwtgKsoUWZMjaxRYj8CHkn8Vkc9kb-yt73IhFy1wXuM_C_ICFtB-ZqM/s1600/IMG_2355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="446" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3z1aLRjyBNc3Jz9TesIGjS31cNQkcJUQz8R2doYEFJcVraWwpNDdKG7AHBRyGG7pjJr4NSpm3oFc7I8bvF5kmfVwtgKsoUWZMjaxRYj8CHkn8Vkc9kb-yt73IhFy1wXuM_C_ICFtB-ZqM/s640/IMG_2355.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Once that is done and everything is put back together, you can see that there is just enough clearance for the linkage to move through without contacting the bulkhead.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkoCMtCo3ETxCSa3sm7JSkPpOwAjw0m1qSnCK5pZRe4brjHs5zHD6F22X6YrOBUxXQNZYdbRxCCiBC4378VJWFW_lY_bf20KHn9GhjVd9v-eRZIchlYEx6Fo3m-7xFm0gUJQyqpUeN_29w/s1600/IMG_2362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkoCMtCo3ETxCSa3sm7JSkPpOwAjw0m1qSnCK5pZRe4brjHs5zHD6F22X6YrOBUxXQNZYdbRxCCiBC4378VJWFW_lY_bf20KHn9GhjVd9v-eRZIchlYEx6Fo3m-7xFm0gUJQyqpUeN_29w/s640/IMG_2362.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The flex is completely gone, the steering is more responsive, and the Ackermann can be adjusted now.</div>
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I also reduced the spacer size where the servo linkage mounts to the bellcrank. You may have noticed that there is a lot of flex here, and only the aluminum bellcranks are going to cure that. Reducing the spacer length will not cure the flex, but it will help the steering be more responsive to inputs by the servo.</div>
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The front upper suspension arms are an interesting design, but I don't think they work so well in this application. 3 Racing made the arm very durable, but it is not so easy to adjust. Once I added the new KPI holes on the stock uprights and adjusted the rod ends to the camber I wanted, they were no longer shrouded by the outer portion of the arm. All that extra material became useless at this point, and the factory turnbuckles became a little bit short. So I cut the arms back to the inner turnbuckle threads and replaced the factory turnbuckles with 25mm ones.</div>
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With plenty of thread going into the base of the arm, they still are very sturdy, and now adjusting them is easy.</div>
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RexRacer19http://www.blogger.com/profile/10050764963091967526noreply@blogger.com4